Ultra Facial Oil-Free Gel Cream
Oily Skin's Best Friend
Verified reviewer
Pros & cons.
- +Sarcosine actively regulates sebum production rather than just absorbing surface oil
- +Oil-free, fragrance-free, paraben-free, and non-comedogenic — checks every sensitive-oily-skin box
- +Cooling menthoxypropanediol provides a refreshing application experience without irritation
- +Absorbs within seconds and leaves a matte finish that works beautifully under makeup
- +Glacial glycoprotein provides hydration without relying on occlusive oils
- +Refillable jar option for sustainability-minded consumers
- −Insufficient hydration for dry or very dehydrated skin types
- −Cooling sensation may be unwelcome for users sensitive to menthol derivatives
- −Dimethicone may pill under certain sunscreen formulations
- −Jar packaging is less hygienic than a tube or pump for a gel-cream product
- −Premium pricing for a formula with relatively few active ingredients
The full review.
For years, the standard approach to oily skin was punitive: dry it, strip it, mattify it, blot it, or cover it in powder. Treating excess oil like a misbehaving child often backfires. This creates dehydrated oily skin that produces even more oil—a feedback loop that leaves many people with a T-zone that is simultaneously greasy and flaking.
Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Oil-Free Gel Cream uses a different philosophy. Instead of punishing oily skin, it asks if the skin overproduces oil because it is dehydrated. The solution is not less moisture, but the right kind of moisture. While dermatologists have said this for years, few oil-free moisturizers execute it well.
The formula is functional. While the original Ultra Facial Cream uses squalane and plant oils, this gel cream removes them. It uses a water-based hydration system anchored by glycerin and propanediol. No oils means no occlusive heaviness, no pore-clogging risk, and no afternoon shine that makes oily-skinned people want to wash their face at 2 PM.
The sarcosine is the clever part—a naturally occurring amino acid derivative that helps regulate sebum production at the source. Most oil-free moisturizers just avoid adding oil. This one actively works to reduce the oil your skin produces. It is the difference between not pouring water into a leaky boat and actually fixing the leak.
The glacial glycoprotein (Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract) returns from the original Ultra Facial Cream for a functional purpose. Derived from Antarctic sea bacteria, it creates a protective, moisture-retaining matrix to compensate for the lack of occlusive oils. It holds moisture in place with a biological layer rather than sealing it with a lipid layer.
The application differs from the original cream. While the Ultra Facial Cream melts in with a thick, buttery feel, this gel cream vanishes almost immediately. It has the weight of water and a very light gel texture. The menthoxypropanediol provides a subtle cooling effect that feels good on warm, oily skin. Within seconds, the skin feels hydrated but matte.
That cooling sensation matters. Menthoxypropanediol is not menthol, but it triggers the same cool-sensing receptors. This synthetic derivative delivers a refreshing sensation without the irritation, redness, or drying effects of pure menthol. For most, it is a pleasant sensory cue that reinforces the lightweight character of the product. A small percentage of users may find any cooling sensation unwelcome.
The 24-hour hydration claim holds up. On oily and combination skin, this gel cream maintains a matte-but-not-dry equilibrium for most of the day. It does not completely eliminate oil production, but it reduces the volume enough that you use blotting papers once instead of three times. For oily skin types who stopped using moisturizer, this product makes a case for reconsidering.
The formula earns credit for what it excludes. It is fragrance-free, alcohol-free, paraben-free, and non-comedogenic, avoiding ingredients that oily and acne-prone skin typically avoids. The dimethicone provides a smooth finish without the pore-clogging concerns of heavier silicones, though some users report pilling when layering certain sunscreens on top.
This gel cream lacks sufficient hydration for anyone not in the oily-to-combination camp. If your skin is dry, normal-to-dry, or dehydrated-without-being-oily, this is not enough. The absence of oils and heavier emollients makes it work for oily skin, but provides no safety net for skin needing lipid supplementation. Winter in cold, dry climates can also expose these limits for combination types.
At $39 for 1.7 ounces, it costs the same as the original Ultra Facial Cream. The refillable jar option offers a modest sustainability angle and slight cost savings on repurchases.
Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Oil-Free Gel Cream understands its audience. It is built for oily and combination skin, and every ingredient decision reflects that focus. While most oil-free moisturizers are just regular moisturizers with the oils removed, this one was designed from the ground up to make oily skin feel understood rather than punished.
Formula
Texture
The application differs from the original cream. While the Ultra Facial Cream melts in with a thick, buttery feel, this gel cream vanishes almost immediately. It has the weight of water and a very light gel texture. The menthoxypropanediol provides a subtle cooling effect that feels good on warm, oily skin. Within seconds, the skin feels hydrated but matte.
Scent
That cooling sensation matters. Menthoxypropanediol is not menthol, but it triggers the same cool-sensing receptors. This synthetic derivative delivers a refreshing sensation without the irritation, redness, or drying effects of pure menthol. For most, it is a pleasant sensory cue that reinforces the lightweight character of the product. A small percentage of users may find any cooling sensation unwelcome.
Best for
Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Oil-Free Gel Cream understands its audience. It is built for oily and combination skin, and every ingredient decision reflects that focus. While most oil-free moisturizers are just regular moisturizers with the oils removed, this one was designed from the ground up to make oily skin feel understood rather than punished.
Works for
On oily and combination skin, this gel cream maintains a matte-but-not-dry equilibrium for most of the day. It does not completely eliminate oil production, but it reduces the volume enough that you use blotting papers once instead of three times. For oily skin types who stopped using moisturizer, this product makes a case for reconsidering.
Not ideal for
This gel cream lacks sufficient hydration for anyone not in the oily-to-combination camp. If your skin is dry, normal-to-dry, or dehydrated-without-being-oily, this is not enough. The absence of oils and heavier emollients makes it work for oily skin, but provides no safety net for skin needing lipid supplementation. Winter in cold, dry climates can also expose these limits for combination types.
Ingredient analysis.
Full INCI list
Aqua/Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Dimethicone, Isononyl Isononanoate, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Carbomer, Butylene Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl Glycol, Dimethiconol, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Pentylene Glycol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Menthoxypropanediol, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Sarcosine, Salicylic Acid
Skin match.
The science.
The Science
This gel cream's approach to oily skin management centers on sarcosine, a naturally occurring amino acid (N-methylglycine) that has demonstrated sebum-regulating properties in cosmetic applications. Sarcosine's mechanism involves competitive absorption at the skin surface, where it interferes with sebaceous lipid deposition without disrupting the skin's natural moisture balance. This represents a more sophisticated approach than traditional mattifying agents, which typically absorb existing oil without addressing production.
The hydration system relies primarily on glycerin and propanediol (1,3-propanediol), a plant-derived diol with humectant properties comparable to glycerin but with a lighter sensory profile. Research published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science has demonstrated that propanediol provides effective moisturization with improved skin feel compared to traditional glycols, making it particularly suitable for lightweight formulations targeting oily skin.
Biosaccharide Gum-1, derived from bacterial fermentation, provides additional moisture-binding capacity through its polysaccharide structure. Studies have shown that biosaccharide gum-1 provides both immediate and sustained hydration, with anti-inflammatory properties that help calm irritation — a relevant benefit for oily skin that is often simultaneously dealing with acne-related inflammation.
Menthoxypropanediol (3-l-Menthoxypropane-1,2-diol) activates TRPM8 receptors in the skin to produce a cooling sensation without the vasoconstriction or irritation associated with menthol. This ingredient has been validated in clinical studies as a well-tolerated cooling agent, providing the sensory benefits of menthol at lower concentrations and with reduced irritation potential.
Dermatologist Perspective
Dermatologists frequently recommend oil-free gel-cream moisturizers for patients with oily and acne-prone skin who are resistant to using moisturizer at all. Board-certified dermatologists note that the Kiehl's Ultra Facial Oil-Free Gel Cream addresses a common clinical challenge: convincing oily-skinned patients that hydration and oil production are separate issues. The sarcosine-based sebum regulation, combined with a non-comedogenic, fragrance-free base, aligns with dermatological best practices for managing oily skin without stripping the barrier. Dermatologists particularly value its compatibility with acne treatments — it can be layered over retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, and salicylic acid without causing additional irritation or occlusion.
Where it fits in your routine.
Apply a pea-sized amount to clean, dry skin every morning and evening after serums and treatments. The gel-cream absorbs almost instantly; wait 1-2 minutes for full absorption before you apply sunscreen or makeup. Layer it over water-based serums (hyaluronic acid, niacinamide) but apply it before oil-based products. In winter or very dry environments, use a hydrating toner or hyaluronic acid serum underneath for more moisture.
At $39 for 1.7 oz, this gel cream costs the same as the original Ultra Facial Cream. Both serve different skin types in the same product family. The value comes from its focus on oily skin: sarcosine regulates sebum, glacial glycoprotein provides oil-free hydration, and the base avoids ingredients oily skin needs to avoid. This functional approach offers value to oily-skinned users who find mattifying products leave skin dry and irritated. The refillable jar option lowers the per-unit cost on later purchases.
Oily and combination skin types need a moisturizer that hydrates without adding shine, controls oil without stripping, and works with acne treatments. This is also ideal for anyone who stopped using moisturizer because previous options felt too heavy or caused breakouts.
Dry, normal-to-dry, or dehydrated skin types will find this insufficient alone — the original Ultra Facial Cream is the better choice. People who dislike any cooling sensation on their skin should also consider alternatives. In very cold, dry climates, even combination skin types may need additional hydration products.
Product details.
Fragrance-free. Completely neutral with no detectable scent.
White jar with a screw-top lid matches the Ultra Facial line aesthetic. A refillable jar option exists. This jar format fits the brand but works less well than a tube or pump for a gel-cream texture.
The first thing you notice is a subtle cooling effect—a gentle menthol-like freshness that shows this product works for oily skin. The gel-cream absorbs within seconds. Within minutes, the typical oily-skin midday shine is gone. There is no tingling, no tightness, and no adjustment period. Skin feels hydrated and balanced from the first use.
2-3 months with twice-daily face application
12 months
spring summer
The backstory.
Born from the recognition that oily skin needs hydration too, this gel cream extends the Ultra Facial franchise into territory most moisturizers avoid. While the original Ultra Facial Cream became a universal favorite, Kiehl's developed this variant specifically for the oily-skin consumer who was either skipping moisturizer entirely or suffering through formulas that felt too heavy.
About Kiehl's
Legacy Brand (20+ years)Kiehl's started as a New York City apothecary in 1851 and has formulated skincare for over 170 years. L'Oréal acquired the brand in 2000, and the brand launched the Dermatologist Solutions line in 2005. The Ultra Facial line is the brand's most recognized collection, based on simple, reliable hydration.
Common myths.
Oily skin does not need moisturizer; adding hydration only increases oiliness.
Dehydrated oily skin often overproduces sebum to compensate for moisture loss. The glycerin and biosaccharide gum-1 in this gel cream provide water-based hydration. This signals the skin to reduce oil production instead of adding more oil on top.
The cooling sensation shows this product contains alcohol or menthol that irritates skin.
menthoxypropanediol provides the cooling effect. This menthol derivative delivers cooling without the irritation, redness, or drying potential of pure menthol or denatured alcohol. The formula is alcohol-free and fragrance-free.
FAQ.
Is Kiehl's Ultra Facial Oil-Free Gel Cream good for acne-prone skin?
Yes — this gel cream is non-comedogenic and oil-free, so it works for acne-prone skin. The sarcosine regulates sebum production, and the formula has no known pore-clogging ingredients. Its lightweight texture does not interfere with acne treatments like salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide.
Does Kiehl's Ultra Facial Oil-Free Gel Cream provide enough hydration?
For oily and combination skin, glycerin, propanediol, and biosaccharide gum-1 provide water-based hydration without oil. This gel cream lacks enough moisture for dry skin or harsh winter months. Layering a hyaluronic acid serum underneath boosts hydration in those cases.
Can I use Kiehl's Ultra Facial Oil-Free Gel Cream under makeup?
Its fast-absorbing, matte finish works as a primer-like base for makeup. It creates a smooth, shine-free canvas so foundation adheres evenly. Wait 1-2 minutes for full absorption before applying primer or foundation.
Why does this gel cream feel cooling on application?
menthoxypropanediol provides the cooling sensation. This gentle menthol derivative triggers skin cool-sensing receptors without causing irritation. It creates a refreshing feeling that signals lightweight hydration — a benefit for oily skin types who find heavy textures uncomfortable.
What's the difference between Kiehl's Ultra Facial Cream and the Oil-Free Gel Cream?
The original Ultra Facial Cream is thicker, using 4.5% squalane and plant oils for all skin types, including dry. The Oil-Free Gel Cream removes oils and uses water-based hydrators and sarcosine to control sebum for oily and combination skin. The Oil-Free Gel Cream has a lighter texture and matte finish.
What the community says.
"Controls shine throughout the day without feeling dry"
"Lightweight and absorbs instantly with no greasy residue"
"Non-comedogenic — doesn't cause breakouts"
"Cooling sensation feels refreshing, especially in warm weather"
"Not hydrating enough for dry or dehydrated skin, especially in winter"
"Cooling sensation from menthoxypropanediol not everyone enjoys"
"Pricey for a basic oil-free moisturizer"
"Dimethicone may pill under certain sunscreens"
