Renewal Firming Moisturizing Cream
Natural Anti-Aging Pick
Verified reviewer
Pros & cons.
- +Bakuchiol positioned prominently in the formula as a clinically validated retinol alternative
- +No purging, peeling, or sun sensitivity — safe for retinol-intolerant skin types
- +Rich, nourishing emollient base with sunflower oil, beeswax, and vitamin E
- +Pregnancy-safe anti-aging option unlike retinol-containing products
- +99% natural-origin ingredients from a trusted 40-year-old brand
- +Fragrance-free version available for sensitive skin (check retailer availability)
- −Original formulation contains fragrance allergens (eugenol, geraniol, limonene, linalool)
- −Rich texture may be too heavy for oily or combination skin types
- −Small 1.8 oz jar lasts only 4-6 weeks — frequent repurchasing required
- −Anti-aging results are gradual and subtle — 8-12 weeks minimum for visible change
- −Jar packaging compromises hygiene and may degrade bakuchiol stability over time
Ingredient analysis.
Full INCI list
Water, Decyl Cocoate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Alcohol, Bakuchiol, Beeswax, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Zea Mays (Corn) Starch, Tocopherol, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Coco-Glucoside, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Arginine, Sclerotium Gum, Fragrance, Phenoxyethanol, Eugenol, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool, Natural Fragrance
Skin match.
The science.
The Science
A 2019 double-blind randomized controlled trial in the British Journal of Dermatology establishes bakuchiol's anti-aging credentials. The study tested 0.5% bakuchiol (applied twice daily) against 0.5% retinol (applied once daily) for 12 weeks in 44 subjects. Both groups showed statistically significant improvements in wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, with no significant difference between treatments. Notably, the retinol group had significantly more scaling and stinging than the bakuchiol group, proving bakuchiol has superior tolerability.
The mechanism of action mimics retinol's outcome but uses a different biochemical pathway. Bakuchiol does not bind to retinoid receptors (RARs) directly. Instead, research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) shows bakuchiol upregulates type I, III, and IV collagen gene expression via a retinoid-independent pathway, likely through the CRABP-II and RXR signaling axis. This allows bakuchiol to stimulate collagen without the retinoid-mediated inflammatory response that causes dryness and peeling.
Bakuchiol also has antioxidant properties; it inhibits lipid peroxidation and scavenges reactive oxygen species. A 2020 study in Experimental Dermatology confirmed bakuchiol protects against UV-induced matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) production, the enzyme that degrades collagen in photoaged skin.
The sunflower seed oil base adds skin benefits. Its high linoleic acid content (approximately 65%) supports the stratum corneum lipid barrier, and its endogenous vitamin E (gamma-tocopherol) provides antioxidant protection. Combining bakuchiol's collagen stimulation with the oil base's barrier support addresses aging through both structural and protective mechanisms.
References
- Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing — British Journal of Dermatology (2019)
Dermatologist Perspective
Dermatologists recognize bakuchiol as a valid option for patients who cannot tolerate retinoids due to sensitivity, pregnancy, or personal preference. Board-certified dermatologists note that while bakuchiol is not a one-to-one replacement for prescription tretinoin — the gold standard for photoaging treatment — it offers meaningful anti-aging benefits for patients who would otherwise use nothing. Dermatologists recommend the fragrance-free version of this product, because fragrance allergens in the original formulation counteract the goals of a daily-use anti-aging cream. They also suggest consistent twice-daily application for at least 12 weeks to match the study protocol that generated the clinical evidence.
Where it fits in your routine.
Apply a nickel-sized amount to clean, dry skin morning and evening. Bakuchiol does not increase sun sensitivity like retinol, so morning use is safe—just follow with SPF 30+ sunscreen. At night, apply after cleansing and any water-based serums. You can use it with vitamin C, AHAs, BHAs, and retinol without interaction concerns. Wait 60-90 seconds for absorption before layering sunscreen. For best results, use it twice daily for at least 12 weeks.
At $18.47 for 1.8 oz, this cream costs a moderate amount for bakuchiol-containing products. Specialty bakuchiol serums and creams from brands like Herbivore ($48/30mL) and Ole Henriksen ($42/50mL) cost much more. The $10.26 per-ounce price exceeds typical Burt's Bees products but the bakuchiol content justifies it. The small jar is the main value concern — four to six weeks per jar costs about $150-200 per year with consistent use. A larger economy size would improve the value.
This works for anyone seeking evidence-based anti-aging who cannot tolerate retinol, is pregnant or breastfeeding, or prefers natural-origin skincare. It suits dry-to-normal skin types wanting a thick, nourishing anti-aging cream. It is ideal for the retinol-curious seeking a gentler alternative.
Oily skin types needing lightweight formulations. People with fragrance sensitivity (unless they find the fragrance-free version). Those expecting rapid, dramatic wrinkle reversal — bakuchiol works gradually. Users already seeing results from prescription tretinoin, which delivers stronger anti-aging results.
Product details.
Thick, creamy texture sits between a lightweight cream and a traditional cold cream. The beeswax and cetyl alcohol base makes it slightly thicker than the brand's other moisturizers. It takes about 90 seconds to fully absorb.
The original formulation has a light herbal-floral fragrance. Some retailers also sell a fragrance-free version.
A white jar features Burt's Bees branding and the 'Renewal' line designation. The 1.8 oz jar is small. Retailers sell both fragranced and fragrance-free versions.
The thick formula feels nourishing from the first application. It causes no tingling, purging, or dryness; the bakuchiol works without the retinol adjustment period. The emollient base makes skin feel softer and slightly plumper immediately. Anti-aging results develop over 4-12 weeks.
4-6 weeks with twice daily face application
12 months
All Year
The backstory.
The Renewal line represents Burt's Bees' most ambitious formulation effort — an attempt to compete with clinical anti-aging products while staying true to the brand's natural ethos. When bakuchiol research emerged showing retinol-comparable results with superior tolerability, Burt's Bees reformulated the line around this ingredient. It was a strategic bet: offering mainstream consumers a credible anti-aging active that didn't require the prescription-grade caution that retinoids demand.
About Burt's Bees
Legacy Brand (20+ years)Burt's Bees launched in 1984 in Maine, founded by Burt Shavitz and Roxanne Quimby to lead America's natural beauty movement. Clorox acquired Burt's Bees in 2007 for $925 million. The Renewal line uses their most active-ingredient-focused formulas, using bakuchiol as a natural retinol alternative.
Common myths.
Bakuchiol works as well as prescription retinol/tretinoin.
A 2019 study compared bakuchiol to 0.5% retinol (not prescription tretinoin) and found similar results for photodamage improvement. Bakuchiol is gentler and works for retinol-intolerant skin, but it does not replace prescription-strength retinoids for significant photoaging or acne.
Natural anti-aging creams can't deliver real results.
Bakuchiol is a purified plant compound. Peer-reviewed clinical evidence shows its collagen-stimulating and anti-wrinkle effects. "Natural origin" does not mean less effective; it means the active compound comes from a plant instead of being synthesized. The mechanism of action matters, not the source.
FAQ.
Can I use Burt's Bees Renewal Cream with retinol or vitamin C?
Yes. Bakuchiol does not increase sun sensitivity or cause the same interaction concerns as retinol. You can layer this with vitamin C serums, AHAs, or retinol products to combine approaches. Apply water-based serums first, then this cream.
Is there a fragrance-free version of this cream?
Yes — Burt's Bees offers a fragrance-free Renewal Firming Moisturizing Cream, but availability varies by retailer. The original formulation contains fragrance, eugenol, geraniol, limonene, and linalool. If you have fragrance sensitivity, choose the fragrance-free variant.
Is Burt's Bees Renewal Cream safe during pregnancy?
Bakuchiol is generally pregnancy-safe, unlike retinol, which is contraindicated during pregnancy. However, consult your healthcare provider about specific products during pregnancy, especially because of the fragrance allergens in the original formulation.
How long does it take to see results from bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol works like retinol by influencing gene expression for collagen production and cell turnover. Expect softer, more hydrated skin within 1-2 weeks. Visible improvements in fine lines and skin firmness take 8-12 weeks of consistent twice-daily use.
Community
What the community says.
"Noticeably firmer, smoother skin after several weeks of use"
"Gentle enough for retinol-sensitive skin that can't tolerate prescription retinoids"
"Rich, luxurious texture that feels nourishing without excessive greasiness"
"Natural ingredient list appeals to clean beauty-conscious consumers"
"No dryness, peeling, or purging unlike traditional retinol products"
"Results are subtle — don't expect dramatic wrinkle reversal"
"Contains fragrance despite being an anti-aging product used daily"
"Small 1.8 oz jar for the price doesn't last long"
"Fragrance-free version availability is inconsistent across retailers"
"Jar packaging introduces hygiene concerns for a daily-use product"
