Niacinamide Cleansing Gelée 3%

Susan Yara spent years in front of a camera dissecting skincare ingredient lists and calling out products that promised more than their formulas could deliver. When she launched Naturium in 2019, the bet was that a beauty journalist’s skepticism could produce better products than a marketing department’s optimism. The Niacinamide Cleansing Gelée is the most convincing evidence for that thesis.

The ingredient list is remarkably short for a cleanser that actually does something — fifteen ingredients total, each with a clear purpose. The surfactant system is built on disodium cocoyl glutamate and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, both amino acid-based cleansers that are about as gentle as surfactants get. Decyl glucoside provides the plant-derived foaming action. There are no sulfates, no silicones, no fragrance, no oils. If you printed this INCI list on a card, a dermatologist would nod approvingly and move on.

The 3% niacinamide is the reason this isn’t just another gentle cleanser. Niacinamide at concentrations between 2-5% has been shown in multiple clinical studies to regulate sebum production, reduce inflammation, and improve skin tone. The counterargument is that a rinse-off product doesn’t provide enough contact time for actives to work — and that’s partially valid. You won’t get the same niacinamide delivery from a 60-second wash as from a leave-on serum. But clinical data on niacinamide-containing cleansers does show measurable improvements in oil control and skin balance with regular use. The 3% concentration provides enough active to make the brief contact window count, especially when used twice daily.

The supporting ingredients are chosen with the same restraint. Sodium hyaluronate and glycerin provide the hydration counterbalance that prevents the tight, stripped feeling most cleansers leave behind. Sodium ascorbyl phosphate — a stable vitamin C derivative that actually makes sense in an aqueous, rinse-off formula where pure ascorbic acid would degrade instantly — adds antioxidant support. Myrciaria dubia (camu camu) fruit extract contributes additional vitamin C from a natural source. Tocopherol provides vitamin E. Every ingredient has a job.

The texture experience is where this cleanser wins over people who try it once. The gelée format is silky and almost essence-like, transforming into a soft, barely-there lather when water is introduced. It doesn’t foam aggressively, it doesn’t tug, and it rinses completely clean without leaving any film. The first time you use it, you might wonder whether it actually cleaned anything because your skin doesn’t feel that familiar tight, squeaky sensation. That’s the point — that tightness is your barrier screaming, and this cleanser doesn’t provoke it.

For oily and combination skin types, this is close to ideal. The mild lather removes excess sebum and daily grime without triggering the rebound oil production that harsher cleansers cause. The niacinamide’s sebum-regulating properties add a treatment dimension to the cleansing step. Over 1-2 weeks of consistent use, many users report noticeably less midday shine and a more balanced complexion.

Dry skin types can use this comfortably — particularly as a morning cleanser — though it may not provide enough moisture retention to serve as the sole cleanser for very dry skin in winter. Adding a creamy second cleanser or a hydrating toner immediately after can bridge that gap.

The value proposition is difficult to beat. At $18 for 7.1 oz, this is roughly four times the volume of most prestige cleansers at the same price, and the formula is cleaner and more thoughtful than many products costing three times as much. The generous size means a bottle lasts 3-4 months with twice-daily use.

The honest limitations are few but worth noting. The consistency is thinner than some users expect from a gel, which can make dispensing a bit messy if you’re not careful with the pump. It’s not a heavy-duty makeup remover — waterproof mascara and full-coverage foundation need an oil cleanser first. And while the formula is gentle enough for most sensitive skin, a small number of users report breakouts, likely from one of the plant extracts rather than the surfactants.

Naturium was acquired by e.l.f. Beauty in 2023 for $355 million, a number that reflects how effectively products like this cleansing gelée challenged the assumption that effective skincare had to be expensive. The formula is simple, the ingredients are documented, the price is fair, and the texture makes you want to wash your face. That’s a cleanser doing its job exactly right.

Formula