Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide

Propolis doesn’t have the glamorous reputation of retinol or the TikTok virality of niacinamide. It’s a resinous substance that bees produce to seal and protect their hives — essentially bee glue. But in Korean herbal medicine, propolis has been valued for centuries for its healing and protective properties. Beauty of Joseon’s Glow Serum takes this unglamorous ingredient and puts it front and center at 60% — a concentration that most brands wouldn’t dare attempt because propolis is expensive and, frankly, not sexy enough for marketing.

The 60% propolis concentration is what makes this serum worth discussing. Most propolis skincare products use 5-20% for label appeal. At 60%, propolis isn’t a supporting player — it’s the entire foundation. The extract provides a complex of over 300 bioactive compounds, including flavonoids (chrysin, pinocembrin), phenolic acids, and CAPE (caffeic acid phenethyl ester), each contributing to the anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and wound-healing profile that makes propolis genuinely interesting as a skincare active.

In practice, the high propolis content manifests as a serum that calms irritated skin noticeably within the first few applications. Active blemishes seem to resolve faster. Redness diminishes. The skin develops a subtle, healthy luminosity — not the sparkly, reflective glow of products loaded with mica, but a deeper, from-within radiance that suggests well-nourished skin. This is the ‘glow’ the product name promises, and it delivers.

The niacinamide at 2% is a deliberate choice that deserves defense. In a market where 10% niacinamide is common, 2% might look timid. But research demonstrates efficacy at concentrations as low as 2%, and in the context of a 60% propolis base, a lower niacinamide percentage reduces the risk of irritation from ingredient interactions. The niacinamide’s role here is targeted — pore refinement, mild oil regulation, and a subtle brightening effect — rather than the aggressive multi-tasking that high-dose niacinamide attempts.

Betaine salicylate at 0.5% adds a layer of gentle chemical exfoliation that most glow serums omit. Betaine salicylate is a BHA derivative with similar pore-clearing properties to salicylic acid but with reduced irritation potential. It dissolves the oil and dead skin cells inside pores, complementing the niacinamide’s oil regulation and the propolis’s antibacterial action. The three-way combination — propolis (antibacterial/healing), niacinamide (oil control/pore refinement), and BHA (exfoliation/pore clearing) — creates a surprisingly comprehensive anti-blemish strategy in what’s marketed simply as a ‘glow serum.’

The botanical supporting cast reinforces the anti-inflammatory theme. Centella asiatica extract provides calming triterpenes. Tea tree extract adds documented antibacterial activity. Turmeric root extract contributes curcumin-based anti-inflammatory support. These aren’t token inclusions — they’re thoughtfully chosen botanicals that complement the propolis’s mechanism of action.

Texture-wise, the serum is slightly viscous with a warm, honey-like tint. There’s a brief tackiness on application — inherent to high-propolis formulas — that resolves within thirty seconds to a minute. The trick is applying to slightly damp skin and using no more than two to three drops; over-application amplifies the sticky phase. Once absorbed, the finish is luminous without being greasy — it looks like healthy skin, not like you’re wearing a serum.

The scent is worth mentioning: a faint, natural honey-like aroma from the propolis itself. No fragrance is added. If you dislike the smell of honey, you’ll notice it; most people find it either pleasant or neutral.

At $17 for 30ml (with a 60ml option at $23.80 for better per-unit value), this serum’s pricing borders on absurd for what it delivers. Comparable propolis serums — COSRX Propolis Synergy Toner at $23/150ml uses a lower propolis concentration, and premium options like the iUNIK Propolis Vitamin Synergy Serum at $19/50ml use 70% propolis extract but at higher per-ml cost. The Beauty of Joseon formulation matches or exceeds these competitors in both concentration and supporting ingredients while remaining accessible.

The limitation worth noting: propolis is a bee product, and for a small percentage of users, it can trigger allergic or sensitivity reactions. If you have known allergies to bee products, patch test carefully. The tamanu oil (Calophyllum inophyllum) is also a known comedogenic ingredient, which is a curious inclusion in a formula otherwise well-suited for acne-prone skin.

For the vast majority of users — particularly those with oily, combination, or acne-prone skin seeking calmer, clearer, more luminous skin — this serum delivers a remarkable amount of value. It’s the product that made ‘propolis’ a word in the average K-beauty consumer’s vocabulary, and it earned that influence honestly.

Formula