Hyaluronic Acid Aqua Booster
Luxury Hydration
Verified reviewer
Pros & cons.
- +Well-formulated NMF complex of sodium lactate, sodium PCA, urea, and glycine
- +Includes supportive niacinamide and licorice root extract
- +Fragrance-free, alcohol-free, and suited to every skin type
- +Lightweight, fast-absorbing texture layers under any moisturizer
- +Immediate plumping and hydration on contact
- +Luxe packaging and pleasant application ritual
- −Wildly expensive at $135 for 20ml
- −Core ingredients are commodity actives available at a fraction of the cost
- −20ml bottle empties in roughly 2 months
- −You're paying for brand positioning, not unique formulation
- −Licorice extract concentration is too low for meaningful brightening
The full review.
Reviewing 111Skin’s Hyaluronic Acid Aqua Booster is uncomfortable because the formula is fine. Nothing is wrong with it. The INCI reads like a standard hydrating serum: glycerin, aloe, a natural moisturizing factor complex of sodium lactate, sodium PCA, urea, and glycine, plus sodium hyaluronate, niacinamide, and a trace of licorice root extract. It is fragrance-free, alcohol-free, and works for every skin type. A dermatologist would call this a well-formulated hydrating serum if tested blind. The issue is the 111Skin price and the reasoning behind it.
At $135 for 20ml, this serum costs as much as a boutique acid treatment or a serious retinol. You can find these same ingredients in serums for $15, $25, or $40, depending on the markup. The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 provides HA for under $10. Inkey List’s Hyaluronic Acid Serum adds NMF components for similar prices. La Roche-Posay’s Hyalu B5 serum includes niacinamide and panthenol for around $40. None of these are 111Skin, but their measurable hydration and barrier support match what the Aqua Booster does on the skin.
You pay the premium for the brand, the packaging, and a specific credibility story. Dr. Yannis Alexandrides, a Harley Street plastic surgeon, founded 111Skin in 2012. His client list reportedly includes royals, celebrities, and private-jet travelers at Harrods. The brand claims these formulations support his surgical patients during recovery, which earned 111Skin placement in global luxury retailers. The cryo sheet masks went viral around 2015-2016 and increased brand visibility; if you see a celebrity on Instagram wearing a silver or rose-gold face mask, it is likely 111Skin.
The Aqua Booster is an ‘approachable’ price point for the brand—$135 is affordable compared to 111Skin sheet masks over $100 or serums over $400. It is the entry ticket for the brand, but in the broader skincare market, it is a luxury purchase where most money buys a brand experience rather than ingredients.
The experience is pleasant. The texture is a lightweight watery serum that absorbs almost instantly. Glycerin and NMF components plump the skin on contact without leaving residue or a sticky film. The dropper bottle is beautiful, the packaging feels substantial, and the morning ritual provides the small-luxury element that justifies the cost for some. Being fragrance-free makes it safe for sensitive skin, and the formula layers with any other actives.
The dermatology perspective is simple. A board-certified dermatologist would say 111Skin’s Hyaluronic Acid Aqua Booster hydrates the skin. They would also say it does nothing a well-formulated $30 HA serum wouldn’t do. The NMF blend—sodium lactate, sodium PCA, urea, and glycine—is a smart choice because it delivers more reliable surface hydration than hyaluronic acid alone. However, a smart formulation choice does not justify a 4-5x markup over comparable serums.
Buyers fall into two camps. The first owns other 111Skin products and wants a full routine; for them, the Aqua Booster is a low-risk addition to more dramatic products. The second group buys luxury skincare and finds $135 emotionally reasonable. For both, the value works because they buy an experience and brand alignment, not just a hydrator. That is a legitimate reason to buy, but you must be clear-eyed about it.
If you buy based on ingredient density per dollar, this is not the right product. The formula is good, but the price is not. In a category where best-in-class options cost under $30, a $135 serum needs a novel delivery system, a unique ingredient, or a clinically proven advantage. Aqua Booster has none of these, and 111Skin does not claim it does. You are paying for the brand. That transaction only makes sense if you want the brand.
Formula
Ingredient analysis.
Full INCI list
Aqua/Water/Eau, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice, Polysorbate 20, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cellulose Gum, Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Urea, Niacinamide, Lactic Acid, Inositol, Glycine, Fructose, Xanthan Gum, Maltodextrin, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice/Réglisse) Root Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid
Skin match.
The science.
The Science
This formula hydrates through two complementary mechanisms. First, humectants attract atmospheric water, mainly via glycerin (second on the INCI) and sodium hyaluronate. Glycerin is a highly studied humectant; decades of research show it draws water into the stratum corneum and improves barrier function. Hyaluronic acid works similarly. High-molecular-weight forms sit on the skin surface, while low-molecular-weight forms penetrate slightly deeper. 111Skin markets their HA as low-molecular-weight, though researchers debate the clinical significance of this distinction.
The second mechanism uses the natural moisturizing factor complex. The skin's stratum corneum contains a mixture of humectant compounds—amino acids, lactate, PCA, urea, and small sugars—that hold water in the outer skin layers. Dry and aged skin lacks these compounds, leading to barrier dysfunction. Replacing NMF components topically is a proven strategy to restore barrier function. This has strong clinical evidence, especially for urea, which shows humectant and mild keratolytic effects at various concentrations.
Niacinamide adds a third mechanism: it stimulates ceramide synthesis and provides modest anti-inflammatory effects. Dermatology journals show that topical niacinamide at 2-5% concentrations supports skin barrier function, reduces transepidermal water loss, and helps manage hyperpigmentation. Based on its INCI position, the concentration in the Aqua Booster is likely below the 4-5% threshold used in most clinical studies, making its contribution supportive rather than primary.
Licorice root extract adds minor soothing and potentially brightening effects via glycyrrhizin and glabridin. Laboratory studies show these compounds have anti-inflammatory and melanogenesis-modulating properties. At the concentration implied by its INCI position, the clinical significance is modest. None of these mechanisms are unique to 111Skin; they are the standard building blocks of a well-formulated hydrating serum, which is what the Aqua Booster is.
Dermatologist Perspective
Dermatologists generally view hydrating serums like the 111Skin Aqua Booster as interchangeable with other well-formulated humectant products. Board-certified dermatologists note that hyaluronic acid, NMF components, and niacinamide are commodity ingredients with excellent safety profiles and established efficacy. Most consumers choose a serum based on budget and personal preference rather than clinically meaningful differences between brands. For patients needing hydration for dry skin, dermatologists often recommend simpler, cheaper pharmacy or mid-tier brands, discussing luxury brands only if the patient prefers that tier.
Where it fits in your routine.
Apply 2-3 drops to damp skin after cleansing and toning, before moisturizer. Press the watery serum into the face and neck instead of rubbing; patting helps it absorb quickly. Use twice daily, morning and evening. Always follow with a moisturizer to seal hydration. Applying hyaluronic acid serums without an occlusive follow-up can increase transepidermal water loss in dry climates by drawing water from deeper layers that then evaporates.
The value math on this serum is difficult. At $135 for 20ml, you pay about $6.75 per ml for ingredients available for under $1 per ml in comparable formulations. No dermatologist or formulator argues the 111Skin formula is five times better than a mid-tier alternative — it is in the same range. The value equation only works if you buy the brand experience and luxury positioning, which are legitimate consumer preferences but not ingredient-based value. For ingredient-first shoppers, this is a poor choice. For 111Skin brand enthusiasts, it is the most reasonably priced serum in a lineup that routinely exceeds $200.
Existing 111Skin brand enthusiasts seeking the lineup's entry-level serum. Luxury skincare shoppers who value the brand experience. Dry or dehydrated skin that needs fragrance-free, gentle, well-rounded hydration if budget is not a concern.
Buyers prioritizing ingredient density per dollar can find equivalent hydration at 10-25% of this price. This suits budget-conscious shoppers who find a $135 small bottle too expensive. It also fits anyone seeking serious actives like retinol, strong vitamin C, or acids, as this serum focuses purely on hydration.
Product details.
Watery, lightweight serum with a slight viscosity from cellulose gum.
Essentially scentless.
A frosted glass dropper bottle sits in a white 111Skin-branded carton — the packaging adds to the price.
The first application provides immediate plumping and a dewy sensation. The glycerin and NMF complex work as intended on contact. It has no tingle, no sting, and no fragrance. The serum absorbs within minutes without residue and leaves the skin smooth and hydrated. This sensation is pleasant but not unique to this formula.
Use 2-3 drops on face and neck twice daily for about 2 months.
12 months
All Year
The backstory.
111Skin was launched in 2012 by Dr. Yannis Alexandrides, a Greek plastic surgeon operating from London's Harley Street. The brand built its reputation on post-procedure recovery formulations for his patients and the now-iconic cryo sheet masks that went viral on Instagram around 2015-2016. The Hyaluronic Acid Aqua Booster joined the range as a more affordable entry point into the brand, though 'affordable' is relative at $135 for 20ml.
About 111Skin
Established Brand (5–20 years)Dr. Yannis Alexandrides, a Harley Street plastic surgeon, founded 111Skin in 2012. The brand uses clinical-luxury formulations originally made for patient recovery. Luxury retailers like Harrods, Neiman Marcus, and Space NK stock 111Skin, which is most famous for its cryo sheet masks.
FAQ.
Is 111Skin Hyaluronic Acid Aqua Booster worth the price?
Most buyers do not need this. The formula uses commodity ingredients — hyaluronic acid, glycerin, NMF components, and niacinamide — found in equally effective drugstore and mid-price serums. You pay for the brand, the packaging, and the Harley Street credential. If you value the experience and luxury brand association, the value changes. If you buy for ingredient efficacy, you get 90 percent of the benefit for 10 percent of the price.
How does this compare to The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5?
Both deliver hyaluronic acid and hydration. The 111Skin formula uses a broader NMF complex with sodium PCA, urea, lactate, and glycine, plus niacinamide, making it slightly more complete. Whether those additions justify a roughly 15x price difference is the real question — for most users, no.
Does this serum work for oily skin?
Yes — the formula is oil-free, lightweight, and non-comedogenic. Oily skin often lacks water. A well-formulated humectant serum helps regulate oil production over time by addressing the water deficit in the upper skin layers.
Can I use this with vitamin C or retinol?
Yes. The formula is fragrance-free, acid-free (except for trace lactic acid), and works with most actives. Apply the Aqua Booster to damp skin first, then use your vitamin C or retinol treatment, then moisturizer to seal it in.
Is this safe for sensitive skin?
Yes — the formula is fragrance-free, alcohol-free, and lacks common sensitizers. Licorice root extract soothes skin, and niacinamide supports the skin barrier. This is a safe luxury serum for reactive skin.
How much should I apply?
Use two to three drops per application for the face and neck. The 20ml bottle lasts about 2 months with twice-daily use.
Why is it so expensive?
The price reflects 111Skin's luxury positioning, the Harley Street plastic surgeon credential, the packaging, retail placement in Harrods and Neiman Marcus, and the halo effect from the brand's viral cryo sheet masks. It does not reflect rare or unusually expensive ingredients.
What the community says.
"Noticeable immediate plumping and hydration"
"Lightweight non-sticky texture"
"Layers beautifully under moisturizer"
"Fragrance-free and well-tolerated"
"Luxe packaging and unboxing experience"
"Extremely expensive for the ingredient complexity"
"20ml bottle is small"
"Similar ingredients available at drugstore price points"
"Primarily pays for the brand, not the formulation"
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