Bright Skin Licorice Root Exfoliating Peel

Licorice root extract occupies a strange niche in skincare. It is one of the best-studied botanicals for hyperpigmentation; its active compound, glabridin, inhibits tyrosinase and slows melanin production at the cellular level. Dermatological literature has cited it for decades as a gentler alternative to hydroquinone for surface-level discoloration. Yet, most brightening serums list licorice root at the end of the INCI list at concentrations too low to work. Eminence’s Bright Skin collection is one of the few lines that uses licorice root effectively, and this exfoliating peel proves it. It is a rare Eminence product where botanical positioning matches actual ingredient efficacy.

The formulation uses two coordinated actives. Lactic acid, a well-studied alpha hydroxy acid, handles exfoliation by loosening surface cells and accelerating turnover to brighten skin. Licorice root extract handles pigment by slowing the tyrosinase enzyme that produces new melanin. Using an exfoliant without a tyrosinase inhibitor removes the top layer while new dark spots form underneath. Using a tyrosinase inhibitor without exfoliation slows new pigment but leaves existing dullness. This peel does both at once, working better than most at-home peel pads that rely only on glycolic acid.

The supporting ingredients are thoughtful. Bisabolol and panthenol buffer the lactic acid to reduce the stinging and reactivity common in acid peels. Black mulberry extract and pomegranate extract add antioxidant and mild brightening support. Glycerin and aloe provide a hydrating water phase so the pads do not feel harsh. The pH sits between 3.5-4.0, which is low enough for the lactic acid to work but buffered for most users. For an at-home peel, this is well-engineered.

On skin, the experience is standard. The first application causes a tingling sensation that lasts two to five minutes before subsiding. Skin feels smoother the next morning; the acid’s mechanical loosening of dead cells creates a clean, refined feel. With consistent use over 2-4 weeks, surface hyperpigmentation fades visibly. Post-acne marks lighten, sun damage softens, and dullness lifts. These cumulative improvements are real, unlike many $70 brightening products.

This peel does not resolve deep pigmentation. Melasma is stubborn and usually requires a combination of prescription tretinoin, hydroquinone, and professional treatments to fade. This peel supports that regimen but will not fix melasma alone. If you have deep discoloration from pregnancy or hormones, see a dermatologist and use this as a supporting tool. For surface sun damage and post-inflammatory acne marks, results are more predictable.

The fragrance is strong and dominated by licorice. Some users like the distinctive, medicinal, spa-like smell. Others find it overwhelming. The formula also contains added parfum, making this a fragrance-forward product unsuitable for rosacea, eczema, or fragrance-sensitive skin. Avoid this entirely if your skin barrier is compromised; layering lactic acid over a stressed barrier increases reactivity.

This is a weekly-to-biweekly treatment, not a daily product. Use it 2-3 times per week in the evening after cleansing. Wait for the tingling to stop, then apply a hydrating serum and moisturizer. Do not layer it with retinoids or vitamin C on the same day, as the combined acidity increases irritation without better results. Always wear daily sunscreen, as any acid exfoliant increases photosensitivity. These are standard rules for AHA-based peels.

The price reflects spa-channel math. At $69 for 50 pads, you pay about $1.38 per use. This is high for at-home peels, where The Inkey List, Paula’s Choice, and CosRx offer options in the $15-30 range. Those alternatives may not contain meaningful concentrations of licorice root, which differentiates the Eminence version, but the premium is real. If you value the Bright Skin collection’s approach and spa-channel positioning, the price is defensible. If you want the best value per active, cheaper lactic acid treatments exist, though they rarely pair the acid with a legitimate tyrosinase inhibitor.

This is the Eminence product I recommend to most people. Unlike some aesthetically-driven items in the lineup, this has a clear mechanism of action, an evidence-backed active combination, and real results. If you want to try Eminence to address surface hyperpigmentation, start here.

Formula