Softymo Deep Cleansing Oil
Drugstore Holy Grail
Verified reviewer
Pros & cons.
- +Cuts through waterproof mascara and SPF easily
- +Exceptional value at 230ml per bottle
- +Clean water-activated emulsification
- +No stinging around eyes during use
- +Non-comedogenic despite mineral oil base
- +Rinses off without greasy residue
- −Sweet synthetic fragrance will bother some users
- −Plain plastic pump packaging feels cheap
- −Austere ingredient list with no actives
- −Not sold widely outside Japan and Asian import stores
The full review.
If you’ve ever wandered into a Tokyo drugstore and stared at a wall of cleansing oils wondering which one Japanese women actually use, this is most likely what they reached for. The Softymo Deep Cleansing Oil has been quietly dominating Japanese @cosme rankings for years, sitting at around 230 yen per 100ml and outselling cleansing oils that cost four and five times as much. It’s also one of the first Japanese drugstore products to develop a cult following in the West, back when J-beauty blogs were arguing over double cleansing and the rest of the world was just figuring out that Western cold cream wasn’t actually removing waterproof mascara. The formula is ruthlessly simple. Mineral oil does the heavy lifting — it’s the most effective solvent for long-wear sunscreen and silicone-based makeup, full stop. Isohexadecane thins it out and gives it glide. A PEG emulsifier converts the oil into a milky wash the moment it meets water, which is the essential mechanical difference between a Japanese oil cleanser and a pre-cleanse balm. A dash of olive and apricot kernel oils add a light conditioning feel. Tocopherol preserves the oil phase. Fragrance and BHT round out the stability story. That’s basically it. There’s nothing revolutionary happening at the ingredient level, and Kose isn’t pretending otherwise. What this formula does is exactly what you want a first cleanse to do, for about twelve dollars for a very generous 230ml bottle. You pump a few drops onto dry skin, massage for thirty seconds to loosen sunscreen and makeup, splash your fingertips with water to trigger the emulsification, work it into a milk, then rinse. Thirty seconds later your skin is clean, not greasy, and ready for a water-based second cleanse. Stubborn waterproof mascara surrenders on the first try. Japanese-style high-film sunscreens — the kind that refuse to budge under a gentle foaming cleanser — come off cleanly. There’s no sting around the eyes, no tightness after rinsing, and no white cast of residue. The shortcomings are honest ones. The fragrance is noticeably sweet in a way that screams Japanese drugstore, and fragrance-sensitive users will want something cleaner. The packaging is a plain plastic pump bottle that doesn’t feel remotely premium. The ingredient list is austere — don’t expect botanical brightening or hydrating marketing claims, because they’re not there. And purists who prefer plant-oil-based cleansers will find the mineral oil base a philosophical dealbreaker, even though the evidence on mineral oil as a safe, non-comedogenic cleansing solvent is overwhelming. None of that changes the core value proposition. For the price of one prestige cleansing balm, you can buy four or five bottles of this, and your makeup will be just as gone at the end of the night. Softymo Deep doesn’t need to be sophisticated. It needs to work. And for nearly twenty years, that’s exactly what it has done.
Ingredient analysis.
Full INCI list
Mineral Oil, Isohexadecane, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Cyclomethicone, Dipropylene Glycol, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Tocopherol, BHT, Fragrance
Skin match.
The science.
The Science
This cleanser works through two principles of surfactant and emollient chemistry. First, long-chain hydrocarbon oils like mineral oil and isohexadecane dissolve silicone-based and wax-based cosmetic films effectively; this is why they lead professional makeup removal formulations. Research on cleansing mechanics — including work in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science on oil-based cleansing and barrier effects — shows that properly rinsed oil cleansers cause less transepidermal water loss than many surfactant-based alternatives. They remove lipophilic soils without disrupting the stratum corneum's intercellular lipids. Second, the PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate emulsifier turns this mineral oil base into a rinsable wash. This emulsifier has a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance that flips from oil-soluble to water-dispersible when it hits water, rinsing away dissolved makeup and sunscreen particles. Most premium Japanese oil cleansers use this same emulsification mechanism, even those costing four times more. Decades of rabbit-ear and human studies show the non-comedogenicity of cosmetic-grade mineral oil; pharmaceutical-grade white mineral oil is too large to penetrate the follicular opening and most dermatology references classify it as non-comedogenic. The olive and apricot oils exist at levels too low to change that profile.
Dermatologist Perspective
Dermatologists generally endorse double cleansing for patients wearing sunscreen or long-wear makeup. They often recommend oil cleansers as the first step because they remove hydrophobic residues without aggressive scrubbing. Board-certified dermatologists note that mineral oil is one of the most skin-safe cleansing solvents available and is non-comedogenic in cosmetic-grade form, despite its bad reputation in wellness marketing. The main caveat for this formula is the fragrance content, which dermatologists flag for patients with rosacea or allergic contact dermatitis. Patients preferring fragrance-free options typically use DHC Deep Cleansing Oil or similar alternatives.
Where it fits in your routine.
Apply two to three pumps to dry skin and dry hands. Water triggers early emulsification and lowers cleansing power. Massage the oil onto your face for 30 to 60 seconds, targeting heavy sunscreen or makeup. Wet your fingertips to turn the oil into a white milky emulsion, then rinse with lukewarm water. Use a water-based cleanser next to finish the double cleanse. If you wear contact lenses, avoid the inner eye because the emulsifier causes brief blurring.
At roughly $12 for 230ml, this costs about five cents per milliliter—one of the lowest cost-per-use ratios in the cleansing oil category. Premium Japanese oil cleansers from Shu Uemura cost $50-100 for similar-sized bottles. While those offer more refined sensory experiences and botanical stories, their makeup-removal performance is not meaningfully better for the average user. Softymo offers the best value if you prioritize function over packaging. A smaller 60ml travel size is sometimes available, but the 230ml bottle is the best value.
This works for anyone wearing daily sunscreen or long-wear makeup who wants an effective, affordable first cleanse. It suits users from the West who want to try Japanese-style double cleansing without a premium price tag.
Fragrance-sensitive users, people with rosacea or highly reactive skin, and those preferring plant-oil-based cleansers for ethical or sensory reasons should look elsewhere. Minimalists uncomfortable with the double cleanse concept should choose a gentle gel cleanser instead.
Product details.
A sweet, slightly synthetic floral — typical of Japanese drugstore products.
A clear plastic bottle with a pump top, sized generously at 230ml.
The first massage feels slick, then turns into a milky white emulsion when water hits it; the PEG emulsifier works this way. Most users feel no stinging or tingling. First-time users often report clean-feeling skin after rinsing.
Approximately 3-4 months of nightly face use with the pump applicator.
12 months
All Year
The backstory.
Kose launched the Softymo line in the early 2000s as a mass-market alternative to its premium skincare counters, targeting Japanese drugstore shoppers who wanted effective makeup removal at an entry-level price. The Deep Cleansing Oil became the runaway hit of the line and cemented Kose's place in budget J-beauty, spawning multiple spin-off formulas including the Speedy version.
About Kose
Legacy Brand (20+ years)Softymo is Kose's mass-market drugstore sub-brand. It has sold in Japanese pharmacies for over two decades. Kose did not develop the line with dermatologists, but uses Kose's formulation expertise and long Japanese retail history.
Common myths.
Mineral oil clogs pores.
Cosmetic-grade mineral oil is highly refined, non-comedogenic, and its molecules are too large to penetrate the follicle. It is one of the safest cleansing solvents for acne-prone skin if you rinse it properly.
Expensive oil cleansers work better than cheap ones.
For makeup removal, cleansing solvents and emulsifiers matter more than botanicals. This $12 formula removes sunscreen and mascara as well as cleansers five times its price.
FAQ.
Does this remove waterproof mascara and sunscreen?
Yes — the mineral-oil-and-isohexadecane system dissolves waterproof formulas and high-SPF Japanese sunscreens in a 30-second massage. This makes it a staple for users who wear long-wear makeup.
How does Softymo Deep compare to Softymo Speedy?
Deep uses a mineral-oil-based formula for maximum cleansing power. Speedy uses a lighter oil blend to emulsify faster and rinse cleaner, sacrificing some of Deep's stubborn-makeup performance for speed.
Can I use this without a second cleanse?
You can, but we don't recommend it. Japanese oil cleansers use the double cleanse model. The second water-based cleanser removes emulsifier residue and leaves skin cleaner so serums penetrate.
Is this fragrance-free?
No. It has a sweet floral fragrance that smells strong to Western users. Fragrance-sensitive users should use DHC or a fragrance-free alternative instead.
Is it fungal-acne safe?
Yes — this rinse-off product lacks fatty acids or esters that feed Malassezia in concerning quantities. Users managing fungal acne can use it as a first cleanse without issue.
What the community says.
"Cuts through stubborn sunscreen"
"Incredibly cheap for the size"
"Emulsifies cleanly"
"Doesn't sting eyes"
"Works on waterproof mascara"
"Strong added fragrance"
"Mineral-oil base feels heavy to some"
"Plastic pump packaging feels cheap"
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