AC Collection Calming Foam Cleanser
K-Beauty Acne Cleanser
Verified reviewer
Pros & cons.
- +0.5% salicylic acid provides gentle daily BHA exfoliation in every cleanse
- +CentellAC-RX complex with three isolated triterpenoids adds soothing to the cleansing step
- +Excellent value at $12 for 150 mL that lasts 2-3 months of twice-daily use
- +Dense creamy foam requires only a small amount per use, stretching the product well
- +High glycerin content helps buffer against the stripping effect of the surfactant system
- +Sulfate-free surfactant system avoids the harshness of SLS and SLES
- −High pH of approximately 9.0 temporarily disrupts the skin's protective acid mantle
- −Contains Lavandula Hybrida Oil, linalool, and limonene — potential irritants for sensitive skin
- −Can feel tight and drying on dry or dehydrated skin types after rinsing
- −Stings on open or actively inflamed acne lesions during use
- −Centella triterpenoids have limited contact time in a wash-off format
Ingredient analysis.
Full INCI list · pH 9
Water, Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Myristic Acid, PEG-32, Potassium Hydroxide, Palmitic Acid, Lauric Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Lauramide DEA, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Potassium Cocoate, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Chloride, Arachidic Acid, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Linalool, Disodium EDTA, Oleic Acid, Limonene, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid
Skin match.
The science.
The Science
The salicylic acid in this cleanser works through a known mechanism: as a lipophilic beta-hydroxy acid, it dissolves into pore sebum, loosening the oil and dead keratinocytes that form comedones. Four clinical studies in a 1992 Clinical Therapeutics study validated 0.5% salicylic acid as safe and effective for acne treatment. A 2020 Cochrane systematic review in JDDG also confirmed the evidence for salicylic acid in topical acne treatment, grouping it with azelaic acid and nicotinamide as alternatives to antibiotics.
Centella triterpenoids — asiaticoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid — have extensive research for wound healing and anti-inflammatory properties. A 2021 review in Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine documented their effects via signaling pathways like NF-kB, TGF-beta/Smad, and MAPK — pathways linked to acne inflammation. While the rinse-off nature of this cleanser limits their therapeutic potential, the anti-inflammatory effect during cleansing may reduce irritation that washing triggers on inflamed, acne-prone skin.
The pH matters for more than just comfort. Research shows the skin's acid mantle — kept at approximately pH 4.5-5.5 — helps antimicrobial defense and barrier function. Alkaline pH cleansers temporarily raise skin surface pH, which can take hours to normalize. For acne-prone skin where Cutibacterium acnes thrives, even temporary pH disruption may be counterproductive. This is why dermatologists generally recommend pH-balanced cleansers (pH 5.0-6.5) for acne management.
References
- Treatment of acne vulgaris with salicylic acid pads — Clinical Therapeutics (1992)
- Evidence-based topical treatments for acne: Cochrane systematic review — JDDG: Journal der Deutschen Dermatologischen Gesellschaft (2020)
- Pharmacological Effects of Centella asiatica on Skin Diseases — Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine (2021)
Dermatologist Perspective
Dermatologists have mixed feelings about this cleanser. Board-certified dermatologists value the 0.5% salicylic acid for pore-clearing maintenance and the centella complex for anti-inflammatory support — both fit evidence-based acne management. However, dermatologists who prioritize pH-balanced cleansing will likely flag the approximately 9.0 pH as a drawback for acne-prone skin. The consensus dermatological recommendation for acne-prone skin is a gentle, pH-balanced cleanser (pH 5.0-6.5) that protects the acid mantle. This cleanser's active ingredients work, but the vehicle undermines the goal.
Guidance
Where it fits in your routine.
Wet your face with lukewarm water. Squeeze a pea-sized amount into your palms and lather with water. Massage the foam onto your face in circular motions for 30-60 seconds. This contact time lets the salicylic acid work on pore congestion. Rinse well with lukewarm water. Use a hydrating, pH-balanced toner immediately after to restore the skin's acid mantle. Use this as a second cleanser after oil cleansing in the evening.
At $12 for 150 mL, this is a highly affordable acne-targeted foam cleanser from a reputable brand. The foam efficiency makes one tube last 2-3 months with twice-daily use, keeping the daily cost under 20 cents. A 50 mL travel size costs about $7-8. This cleanser offers strong value with 0.5% salicylic acid and centella triterpenoids. The ingredient quality justifies the price despite the pH shortcoming — just buy a good hydrating toner to use alongside it.
People with oily or combination skin managing mild acne, blackheads, or excess sebum who want a gentle daily BHA cleanser. K-beauty enthusiasts seeking an affordable second cleanser for a double-cleansing routine. Users who want a satisfying foam texture and anti-acne benefits in their cleansing step.
Dry, dehydrated, or sensitive skin types will find this cleanser too drying and irritating. People sensitive to lavender or essential oils should avoid the Lavandula Hybrida oil. If you want pH-balanced cleansing, COSRX's Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser is a better choice from the same brand.
Product details.
All Year Certifications Dermatologist TestedHypoallergenicNon-AcnegenicParaben-FreeSulfate-FreePhthalate-FreeGluten-Free
The backstory.
The AC Collection Calming Foam Cleanser replaced COSRX's original Salicylic Acid Daily Gentle Cleanser as the brand's primary acne cleanser. The reformulation reflected COSRX's community feedback: acne sufferers wanted BHA cleansing power but with added soothing to prevent the cycle of irritation that worsens breakouts. The product was updated again in 2021 as a 'New Version' with refined formulation.
About COSRX
Established Brand (5–20 years)COSRX launched in 2013 and is a trusted K-beauty brand for targeted, ingredient-forward skincare. The AC Collection line uses COSRX's proprietary CentellAC-RX complex. Amorepacific has owned COSRX as a subsidiary since 2023.
Common myths.
Foam cleansers strip acne-prone skin.
This cleanser uses cocamidopropyl betaine — a mild amphoteric surfactant — and a fatty acid surfactant system, with high glycerin levels acting as a humectant buffer. Foaming action does not determine how stripping a cleanser is; the surfactant system and supporting ingredients do. However, the high pH (~9.0) causes temporary barrier disruption, so use a hydrating toner afterward.
Salicylic acid in a wash-off cleanser lacks contact time to work.
Leave-on BHA products have more contact time and stronger results. However, clinical studies show that brief exposure to 0.5% salicylic acid in wash-off formulations provides cumulative pore-clearing benefits with regular use. Consistency is what matters—daily use over weeks delivers visible results, not a single dramatic cleansing session.
FAQ.
What is the pH of the COSRX AC Collection Calming Foam Cleanser?
The pH is about 9.0, making it alkaline. Healthy skin pH stays near 5.5, so this cleanser temporarily raises your skin's pH. Use a hydrating, pH-balanced toner right after rinsing to restore your skin's natural acid mantle. If you want a low-pH cleanser, COSRX's Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser is a better choice.
Can I use this cleanser if I have sensitive skin?
This cleanser is dermatologist tested and hypoallergenic. It contains Lavandula Hybrida Oil (lavender), linalool, and limonene, which are fragrance components that irritate sensitive skin. The high pH makes it less ideal for compromised or reactive skin. If you have sensitive acne-prone skin, patch test first or use the COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser instead.
Does this cleanser contain salicylic acid?
Yes — it has 0.5% salicylic acid (BHA). This penetrates pores to dissolve sebum and dead skin cell buildup. This concentration in a wash-off format provides gentle daily exfoliation for everyday use without the intensity of leave-on BHA treatments. For stronger BHA action, use it with a leave-on BHA product like the COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid.
Can this cleanser remove makeup?
This is not designed as a makeup-removing cleanser. It works best as a second cleanse after an oil cleanser or micellar water in the evening. Used alone on a face wearing sunscreen or makeup, it won't fully dissolve waterproof or silicone-based products. Use the double-cleansing method for complete removal.
Is this better than the COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser for acne?
They serve different needs. This foam cleanser uses salicylic acid (0.5%) and centella to clear pores and calm skin, targeting acne. The Low pH Good Morning Gel has a skin-friendly pH of ~5.0-6.0 and is gentler. Choose this cleanser for acne control because it has more active ingredients. Choose the Low pH version for gentle, barrier-friendly cleansing.
Community
What the community says.
"Gentle enough for daily use while still effectively removing excess oil and sebum"
"Rich creamy foam lathers luxuriously with only a small amount of product"
"Helps calm existing breakouts and reduce redness over time"
"Affordable K-beauty option for acne-prone skin at $12 for 150 mL"
"Leaves skin feeling clean without the extreme tightness of harsher acne cleansers"
"High pH of approximately 9.0 is far from ideal for maintaining the skin's acid mantle"
"Contains lavender oil that can irritate truly sensitive or reactive skin"
"Can feel tight and drying on dry or dehydrated skin types after rinsing"
"Stings when used on open or actively inflamed acne lesions"
"Not effective for removing makeup or sunscreen as a standalone cleanser"
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