Active Clearing Skin Wash
Professional-Grade Acne Cleanser
Verified reviewer
Pros & cons.
- +Extensive anti-inflammatory botanical complex with 20+ extracts calms acne-related redness
- +Gentle sulfate-free surfactant system cleans effectively without stripping the skin barrier
- +Tea tree oil and zinc PCA provide antimicrobial and oil-control benefits beyond the BHA
- +Cruelty-free and 100% vegan formulation as of 2024
- +Available in a cost-effective 16.9 oz size that lasts 4-6 months
- +Professional-grade lineage dating back to the mid-2000s MediBac Clearing line
- −0.5% salicylic acid is too gentle for moderate-to-severe acne as a standalone treatment
- −Premium $49 price for 8.4 oz is difficult to justify for a rinse-off cleanser
- −Camphor, menthol, and eucalyptus can irritate sensitive or compromised skin
- −Anti-aging peptide has minimal efficacy in a rinse-off product with brief contact time
- −Strong herbaceous scent from essential oils won't appeal to all users
The full review.
Count the botanical extracts in the Dermalogica Active Clearing Skin Wash and you’ll run out of fingers twice. Tea tree, eucalyptus, turmeric, chamomile, echinacea, sage, basil, holy basil, passionflower, lemon balm, witch hazel, eggplant, green tea, garlic, neem, lemon, roman chamomile, seaweed — the formula reads less like a cleanser and more like a herbalist’s field notes from a particularly ambitious afternoon. Whether this botanical abundance translates into meaningfully better outcomes than a simpler formulation is the central tension of this product.
Dermalogica’s heritage helps frame the approach. The brand was born in 1986 from Jane Wurwand’s work with the International Dermal Institute, training professional skin therapists who needed products sophisticated enough to justify their expertise. The Active Clearing Skin Wash carries that DNA — it’s formulated to feel and perform like a treatment, not just a cleanser. The 2019 reformulation that transitioned it from the MediBac Clearing line added Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 (an anti-aging peptide) and modernized the botanical complex, explicitly positioning it for the adult acne market where breakouts and fine lines coexist on the same face.
Reality
The active ingredient is 0.5% salicylic acid — an FDA-regulated concentration that’s gentle enough for twice-daily use but modest by acne treatment standards. For context, most dedicated BHA treatments use 2% salicylic acid, four times this concentration. In a rinse-off product with perhaps sixty seconds of skin contact, the exfoliating impact is limited. But Dermalogica’s argument, implicit in the formulation, is that the salicylic acid isn’t working alone. Phytic acid adds a second exfoliating pathway. Zinc PCA and kaolin clay address oil production. Tea tree oil provides antimicrobial action. And the extensive anti-inflammatory roster — licorice root, turmeric, chamomile, green tea — manages the inflammation that drives acne formation as aggressively as the BHA manages the clogging.
Texture
The texture is a clear, translucent gel that produces a modest lather — less foam than you might expect from a brand that originally trained estheticians, but enough to feel like it’s doing something. The camphor and menthol create an immediate cooling tingle that’s pleasant if you enjoy the medicinal spa experience and potentially irritating if your skin is already compromised. The scent is unapologetically herbaceous — tea tree and eucalyptus dominate, creating a fresh, slightly medicinal aroma that lingers briefly after rinsing. There’s no synthetic fragrance here, which is admirable, but natural essential oils can still sensitize reactive skin.
Scent
The texture is a clear, translucent gel that produces a modest lather — less foam than you might expect from a brand that originally trained estheticians, but enough to feel like it’s doing something. The camphor and menthol create an immediate cooling tingle that’s pleasant if you enjoy the medicinal spa experience and potentially irritating if your skin is already compromised. The scent is unapologetically herbaceous — tea tree and eucalyptus dominate, creating a fresh, slightly medicinal aroma that lingers briefly after rinsing. There’s no synthetic fragrance here, which is admirable, but natural essential oils can still sensitize reactive skin.
Common Praise
Performance over time shows a consistent pattern in user reviews: this cleanser is very good at maintaining clear skin and preventing new breakouts, but less effective at clearing existing moderate-to-severe acne. The 0.5% salicylic acid simply doesn’t have the concentration to power through established congestion. Where users report the most satisfaction is in using it as part of Dermalogica’s full Active Clearing system — the cleanser preps and maintains, while the treatment products (serums, spot treatments) do the heavy lifting. This is by design, and it’s honest product architecture even if it means the cleanser alone isn’t a complete acne solution.
Common Complaints
Performance over time shows a consistent pattern in user reviews: this cleanser is very good at maintaining clear skin and preventing new breakouts, but less effective at clearing existing moderate-to-severe acne. The 0.5% salicylic acid simply doesn’t have the concentration to power through established congestion. Where users report the most satisfaction is in using it as part of Dermalogica’s full Active Clearing system — the cleanser preps and maintains, while the treatment products (serums, spot treatments) do the heavy lifting. This is by design, and it’s honest product architecture even if it means the cleanser alone isn’t a complete acne solution.
Works for
Performance over time shows a consistent pattern in user reviews: this cleanser is very good at maintaining clear skin and preventing new breakouts, but less effective at clearing existing moderate-to-severe acne. The 0.5% salicylic acid simply doesn’t have the concentration to power through established congestion. Where users report the most satisfaction is in using it as part of Dermalogica’s full Active Clearing system — the cleanser preps and maintains, while the treatment products (serums, spot treatments) do the heavy lifting. This is by design, and it’s honest product architecture even if it means the cleanser alone isn’t a complete acne solution.
Best for
Performance over time shows a consistent pattern in user reviews: this cleanser is very good at maintaining clear skin and preventing new breakouts, but less effective at clearing existing moderate-to-severe acne. The 0.5% salicylic acid simply doesn’t have the concentration to power through established congestion. Where users report the most satisfaction is in using it as part of Dermalogica’s full Active Clearing system — the cleanser preps and maintains, while the treatment products (serums, spot treatments) do the heavy lifting. This is by design, and it’s honest product architecture even if it means the cleanser alone isn’t a complete acne solution.
Not ideal for
Performance over time shows a consistent pattern in user reviews: this cleanser is very good at maintaining clear skin and preventing new breakouts, but less effective at clearing existing moderate-to-severe acne. The 0.5% salicylic acid simply doesn’t have the concentration to power through established congestion. Where users report the most satisfaction is in using it as part of Dermalogica’s full Active Clearing system — the cleanser preps and maintains, while the treatment products (serums, spot treatments) do the heavy lifting. This is by design, and it’s honest product architecture even if it means the cleanser alone isn’t a complete acne solution.
AM routine
The anti-aging angle deserves a direct assessment. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a legitimate collagen-stimulating peptide — in leave-on products. In a cleanser that’s rinsed off after sixty seconds, the peptide’s ability to penetrate skin and stimulate collagen synthesis is, to be generous, optimistic. It’s not harmful, and it signals Dermalogica’s intent to address adult skin concerns holistically, but anyone choosing this cleanser specifically for anti-aging benefits should manage their expectations firmly.
PM routine
The anti-aging angle deserves a direct assessment. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a legitimate collagen-stimulating peptide — in leave-on products. In a cleanser that’s rinsed off after sixty seconds, the peptide’s ability to penetrate skin and stimulate collagen synthesis is, to be generous, optimistic. It’s not harmful, and it signals Dermalogica’s intent to address adult skin concerns holistically, but anyone choosing this cleanser specifically for anti-aging benefits should manage their expectations firmly.
Pairs Well With
The surfactant system is genuinely excellent. Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate and Cocamidopropyl Betaine are among the gentlest cleansing agents available, and the formula is free of SLS, SLES, and other harsh sulfates. The glycerin and sodium PCA provide humectant support that helps the cleanser clean without stripping, which is crucial for acne-prone skin that’s often already dehydrated from other treatments.
Conflicts With
The surfactant system is genuinely excellent. Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate and Cocamidopropyl Betaine are among the gentlest cleansing agents available, and the formula is free of SLS, SLES, and other harsh sulfates. The glycerin and sodium PCA provide humectant support that helps the cleanser clean without stripping, which is crucial for acne-prone skin that’s often already dehydrated from other treatments.
Value
Value is where this product faces its toughest scrutiny. At $49 for 8.4 ounces of a rinse-off product with 0.5% salicylic acid, the price reflects Dermalogica’s professional positioning rather than the ingredient cost. The 16.9 oz size at $73 significantly improves the per-ounce value, and if you’re committed to this cleanser, buying the larger size is the only financially rational choice. But it’s worth acknowledging that drugstore cleansers with higher salicylic acid concentrations, simpler but effective ingredient lists, and larger sizes exist at a fraction of the price.
How to Use
The case for this cleanser is ultimately about philosophy, not just chemistry. If you believe in the professional-grade approach — a meticulously layered botanical complex designed by people who’ve trained skin therapists for decades, gentle enough to use twice daily without barrier damage, sophisticated enough to address acne and aging simultaneously — then the premium makes sense within that framework. If you’re looking for the most cost-effective way to get salicylic acid onto your face, you can do that for a tenth of the price elsewhere.
Ingredient analysis.
Full INCI list
Active Ingredient: Salicylic Acid (0.5%). Inactive Ingredients: Water/Aqua/Eau, Glycerin, Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropylsulfonate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Hydroxypropyl Bis-Hydroxyethyldimonium Chloride, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, Butylene Glycol, Sodium PCA, Phytic Acid, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Allium Sativum (Garlic) Bulb Extract, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Passiflora Incarnata Extract, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract, Camphor, Menthol, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Leaf Extract, Solanum Melongena (Eggplant) Fruit Extract, Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Sodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Polysorbate 80, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Angelica Archangelica Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Echinacea Angustifolia Leaf Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Flower/Leaf Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Maltodextrin, Silica, Palmitic Acid, Zinc PCA, Kaolin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Aminomethyl Propanol, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hydroxide, Benzyl PCA, Phenoxyethanol
Skin match.
The science.
The Science
The 0.5% salicylic acid active stays within the FDA-approved range for over-the-counter acne products (0.5-2%). As a beta-hydroxy acid, salicylic acid is lipophilic. It enters oil-filled pores and dissolves the intercellular lipid bonds between dead skin cells, which promotes desquamation and prevents comedone formation. Even in a rinse-off product, the brief contact time allows some follicular penetration.
The tea tree oil (Melaleuca alternifolia) component has substantial clinical support. A landmark study by Bassett et al. (1990) in the Medical Journal of Australia compared 5% tea tree oil gel to 5% benzoyl peroxide lotion. It found similar efficacy in reducing inflamed and non-inflamed acne lesions, but the tea tree group had fewer side effects. While this cleanser's concentration is undisclosed and likely lower than 5%, tea tree oil's antimicrobial activity against Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes) uses an anti-acne pathway distinct from salicylic acid.
Zinc PCA targets sebum regulation. Research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science shows that zinc PCA reduces sebum production by inhibiting 5-alpha reductase activity. This enzyme converts testosterone to dihydrotestosterone, the primary hormonal driver of excess sebum. Combined with kaolin clay for immediate oil absorption, the formula uses both biochemical and physical oil control.
The botanical anti-inflammatory complex—centered on dipotassium glycyrrhizate (licorice root derivative), turmeric extract, and multiple chamomile species—addresses the inflammatory cascade that drives acne lesion formation. Curcumin from turmeric shows anti-inflammatory activity comparable to some NSAIDs in certain assays, while glycyrrhizin derivatives inhibit prostaglandin and leukotriene synthesis. It is unknown if these concentrations in a rinse-off product deliver clinically meaningful anti-inflammatory effects.
Dermatologist Perspective
Dermatologists would recognize this as a well-formulated gentle acne cleanser for mild adult acne or broader treatment regimens. Board-certified dermatologists generally recommend salicylic acid cleansers at 0.5-2% for daily use; this product sits at the gentler end of that range. The sulfate-free surfactant system follows dermatological recommendations to avoid harsh cleansing agents on acne-prone skin, which often faces compromise from other topical treatments. Dermatologists may note that the many botanical extracts, while individually well-studied, create a complex formula with a higher theoretical risk of allergic contact dermatitis than a simpler formulation—though available data shows a low clinical incidence.
Where it fits in your routine.
Wet face and hands with lukewarm water. Dispense one to two pumps into palms and lather. Massage onto damp face in circular motions for 60 seconds, focusing on breakout-prone areas (T-zone, chin, jawline). Rinse with lukewarm water and pat dry. Use morning and evening. Follow with your skincare routine. For double-cleansing, use after an oil-based first cleanser in the evening.
At $49 for 8.4 oz (250ml), this premium cleanser costs about $0.30-0.40 per wash with twice-daily use. The 16.9 oz size at $73 lowers the per-wash cost and is the best buy for regular users. The formula uses professional-grade surfactants, botanicals, zinc PCA, and peptide, which justifies a price above drugstore brands. However, formulation alone does not bridge the gap between this and $10-15 drugstore BHA cleansers. Value depends on whether you want the Dermalogica professional ecosystem or just the best salicylic acid cleanser for your money.
Adults with mild-to-moderate acne and oily or combination skin use this gentle, twice-daily cleanser to manage breakouts without stripping the barrier. It works well for those using the Dermalogica ecosystem who want a cleanser to complement the Active Clearing treatment products. Professional estheticians can also recommend this salon-grade acne cleanser to clients.
The 0.5% salicylic acid won't treat moderate-to-severe acne alone. Budget-conscious consumers can buy effective BHA cleansers for much less. People with sensitive skin or essential oil sensitivities have camphor, menthol, eucalyptus, and tea tree in this formula. Dry skin types will find this formula too stripping despite the gentle surfactants.
Product details.
Clear, translucent gel lathers into a gentle natural foam when mixed with water. It produces less lather than typical foaming cleansers but lathers enough to feel effective. The formula is lightweight and non-stripping.
This formula has no synthetic fragrance. Instead, tea tree oil, eucalyptus, camphor, and menthol create a medicinal, herbaceous scent. It feels cooling and invigorating; some users find it spa-like, while others find it overpowering.
Grey plastic pump bottle uses Dermalogica's signature professional-grade aesthetic. It comes in 8.4 oz and 16.9 oz sizes. The pump dispenser works well, and both the bottle and pump are fully recyclable.
Camphor and menthol cause a mild cooling tingle. This is intentional and does not mean irritation for most users. The gel lathers gently and rinses clean. Skin feels fresh and slightly taut without feeling tight or stripped. If you have persistent stinging or redness, use it once daily or every other day.
2-3 months with twice-daily use (8.4 oz size)
12 months
All Year
The backstory.
Born from Dermalogica's partnership with the International Dermal Institute, this cleanser evolved from the original MediBac Clearing Skin Wash into the current Active Clearing formulation in 2019. The rebrand and reformulation shifted the focus from teenage acne to adult breakouts — adding anti-aging peptides and a more sophisticated botanical complex while maintaining the salon-grade cleansing performance the professional channel demanded.
About Dermalogica
Legacy Brand (20+ years)Jane Wurwand founded Dermalogica in 1986 in Los Angeles, working with the International Dermal Institute. Over 100,000 professional skin therapists worldwide use the brand, which Unilever has owned since 2015. Its formulations rely on professional esthetic education instead of direct dermatological research.
Common myths.
A cleanser with 0.5% salicylic acid lacks efficacy because you rinse it off too fast.
Even with limited contact time, salicylic acid clears pores during the 60-second wash. Zinc PCA and kaolin clay in the formula provide residual oil control, and the gentle concentration allows twice-daily use without barrier damage.
The cooling tingle means the product is too harsh for your skin.
Camphor and menthol cause the cooling sensation, not salicylic acid damaging your skin. These ingredients add sensory effects without increasing exfoliating intensity. If you feel burning instead of cooling, reduce frequency.
FAQ.
Is the Dermalogica Active Clearing Skin Wash good for adult acne?
This cleanser reformulates for adult acne. The 0.5% salicylic acid treats breakouts, while the Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 peptide and botanical complex target the aging and inflammation concerns that adult acne sufferers face alongside breakouts.
Can I use this cleanser twice a day?
Yes — the 0.5% salicylic acid concentration works for twice-daily use on most skin types. If you see dryness or irritation, use it once daily, preferably in the evening, and use a gentler cleanser in the morning.
Why is the Dermalogica Clearing Skin Wash so expensive?
The premium price reflects Dermalogica's professional-grade positioning, its large botanical ingredient list (over 20 plant extracts), and an anti-aging peptide. The 16.9 oz size at $73 has better per-ounce value than the 8.4 oz at $49.
Is this the same as the MediBac Clearing Skin Wash?
The Active Clearing Skin Wash replaces the reformulated MediBac Clearing Skin Wash. The 2019 reformulation adds anti-aging peptides, turmeric extract, and zinc PCA to the original salicylic acid and tea tree core.
Does this cleanser contain artificial fragrance?
This formula contains no synthetic fragrance. Natural botanical oils and extracts—mainly tea tree, eucalyptus, camphor, and menthol—provide the herbaceous, medicinal scent. These natural ingredients can cause reactions if you are sensitive to essential oils.
What the community says.
"Effectively reduces breakout frequency without over-drying the skin"
"Gentle enough for twice-daily use despite containing salicylic acid"
"Pleasant cooling sensation from the menthol and camphor"
"Keeps mild-to-moderate acne at bay with consistent use"
"Removes makeup well while treating acne"
"Premium price of $49 for 8.4 oz is steep for a rinse-off cleanser"
"0.5% salicylic acid may be too gentle for moderate-to-severe acne"
"Camphor and menthol can sting on compromised or sensitive skin"
"Some users report closed comedones developing with extended use"
"Natural botanical scent is strong and may not appeal to everyone"
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