Clean It Zero Cleansing Balm Purifying
K-Beauty Cult Favorite
Verified reviewer
Pros & cons.
- +Melts long-wear makeup and mineral sunscreen in under a minute
- +Willow bark and enzymes give genuine decongesting value in a rinse-off
- +Emulsifies cleanly with water and leaves no greasy film
- +Zinc PCA pushes the finish toward matte rather than cushioned
- +Excellent per-ounce value for a K-beauty first cleanse
- +Spatula keeps the tub hygienic over four-plus months of daily use
- +Noticeably smooths texture and blackheads over 2-3 weeks of PM use
- −Tea tree, peppermint and menthol will irritate compromised barriers
- −Added fragrance, limonene and linalool limit sensitive-skin use
- −Tub packaging is fine at home but awkward for travel
- −Not fungal-acne safe due to botanical oils and fatty esters
- −Herbal-mint scent is polarizing for fragrance-averse users
The full review.
About Clean It Zero
Clean It Zero changed how an entire region cleanses its face. Before it arrived at Sephora, most American skincare shoppers thought oil on oily skin was witchcraft. The pink tub made oil cleansing mainstream and generated massive repeat purchases. However, it faced one consistent complaint: users with oily, congested skin liked the texture but wanted something more decisive than a “hug” for their first cleanse. The green tub solves this. The Purifying variant keeps the core Clean It Zero mechanics — the shea-based sherbet that melts into a clear oil, the easy water emulsification, and the ability to remove long-wear makeup and mineral sunscreen without drama — but adds actives for active pores. The ingredient list is small and intentional. Willow bark extract provides natural salicin that converts to mild salicylic acid activity; while this rinse-off won’t replace a leave-on BHA, it adds a cumulative decongesting effect during the massage. Papain and bromelain (papaya and pineapple enzymes) loosen dead protein bonds during the 30 to 60 seconds the balm stays on the face. Zinc PCA modulates sebum. Tea tree oil provides antibacterial properties, while menthol and peppermint oil create a cool tingle. The skin feel differs from the original. The texture starts as a firm, sorbet-like scoop — use the spatula to keep the tub hygienic — and warms into a silky, clear oil under fingertips in seconds. While the original Clean It Zero glides on in a cushiony, neutral way, this version has a cool, medicinal edge and a sharper herbal-mint scent. Adding water triggers the classic Banila Co transition into a thin, milky emulsion, signaling it is time to rinse. Residue is minimal. Skin feels clean and de-shined, though it may feel slightly squeaky initially if you are not used to purifying cleansers. This is the tradeoff. Because this version focuses on purifying, it may bother a compromised barrier. If you have rosacea, eczema, or are freshly retinized, the tea tree, menthol, peppermint, and added fragrance provide more sensory input than sensitive skin needs. The 60-second rinse-off helps because contact time matters, but the experience remains different from the original; sensitive users should choose the pink tub. For its target audience, this is a pleasant oily-skin cleanser at this price. At twenty dollars for a four-to-five-month supply, this balm melts every sunscreen you apply and offers better value than most Western cleansing balm competitors that cost around forty. It works well as a first step in a double cleanse: let this remove sebum, sunscreen, and makeup, then follow with a low-pH gel cleanser for the water-soluble layer. Used this way, it decongests without being punishing. Over two or three weeks, blackheads soften and texture smooths more than with the original variant. It won’t replace a leave-on acid or a proper retinoid, but it does not try to.
Ingredient analysis.
Full INCI list
Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Polyethylene, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate, Synthetic Wax, Beeswax, Water, Glycerin, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Papain, Bromelain, Zinc PCA, Menthol, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate, Dipropylene Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Disodium EDTA, Fragrance, Limonene, Linalool
Skin match.
The science.
The Science
This formulation uses three evidence bases, which matters since this is a rinse-off. Willow bark extract contains salicin, which skin converts into small amounts of salicylic acid. Salicylic acid's comedolytic mechanism is well-documented in leave-on studies, but rinse-off contact shortens exposure. Willow bark provides modest cumulative benefit rather than a single-session treatment effect. Formulation studies show proteolytic enzymes like papain and bromelain exfoliate the surface; the brief massage window of a cleansing balm works for enzyme action, though industry challenges exist in standardizing activity across batches. Peer-reviewed work characterizes tea tree oil's antibacterial activity against Cutibacterium acnes. A 2007 study in the Australasian Journal of Dermatology compared 5% tea tree oil gel to 5% benzoyl peroxide and showed tea tree was slower but caused fewer side effects, though that research concerns leave-on concentrations. In a cleanser that stays on skin for a minute, the benefit is more about the decongesting sensory experience than meaningful antimicrobial impact. Clinical evaluations of leave-on products show Zinc PCA's sebum-modulating activity. While contact time limits this here, its inclusion fits the Purifying variant's positioning. The ethylhexyl palmitate and triglyceride base does the actual cleansing work, dissolving sebum, silicone-heavy sunscreen filters and long-wear makeup via straightforward lipid chemistry. The science supports this as a very good cleansing balm with decongesting co-stars rather than a multi-actives treatment.
References
- The efficacy of 5% topical tea tree oil gel in mild to moderate acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind placebo-controlled study — Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology and Leprology (2007)
Dermatologist Perspective
Dermatologists view cleansing balms as a legitimate first step in a double cleanse for patients who wear sunscreen daily or use long-wear makeup, and the original Clean It Zero is a well-tolerated entry point. The Purifying variant has a different position—it is commonly recommended for patients with oily or blackhead-prone skin who want a decongesting feel, but dermatologists caution against it for patients with rosacea, perioral dermatitis, or active barrier compromise because of the tea tree, menthol and fragrance. Board-certified dermatologists emphasize that any purifying claim in a rinse-off is sensory and cumulative rather than treatment-level, and patients relying on this product for acne should still use a leave-on salicylic acid or retinoid. Dermatologists commonly advise patch testing on the inner arm for 48 hours before introducing the Purifying variant to reactive skin.
Where it fits in your routine.
Apply to fully dry skin as the first step of an evening double cleanse; water activates the emulsifiers too early. Use the included spatula to scoop a pea-to-almond-sized amount and warm it between fingertips. Massage in circular motions for 30 to 60 seconds, focusing on areas with sunscreen or makeup buildup. Wet your hands and massage until the balm turns milky, then rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water. Follow immediately with a water-based second cleanse like a low-pH gel cleanser. Avoid the immediate eye area if you have sensitive eye tissue, as the menthol and tea tree can cause stinging. This is not recommended for morning use when pores are less congested.
At $19 for a 100ml tub, this lasts four to five months as a nightly first cleanse and sits in the best-value tier. Comparable Western cleansing balms cost $38 to $68 for similar volumes and usually lack purifying actives. Banila Co also sells a 150ml size that improves per-ounce value for long-term users. The price reflects a decade-plus of iterated K-beauty formulation experience from a brand that helped scale the cleansing balm category in the West. Here, the price reflects proven quality instead of brand markup.
Oily, combination, or blackhead-prone skin that double cleanses nightly and wants a decongesting first step. It also works for makeup and SPF-heavy routines where the original Clean It Zero feels too cushiony, and for anyone who likes a sensorial, slightly cool cleanse without harsh foam.
Sensitive, rosacea-prone, eczema-prone, dry, or freshly-retinized skin reacts to the tea tree, menthol, peppermint, and added fragrance. These ingredients add sensory input a compromised barrier does not need. Fragrance-averse users and those prone to fungal acne should use a simpler gel cleanser or the Original Clean It Zero.
Product details.
Firm sherbet balm melts into a silky oil on contact and emulsifies into a thin milk with water.
Sharp herbal-mint with tea tree and eucalyptus notes — noticeably more pungent than the original pink Clean It Zero.
Signature round tub has a domed lid and includes a spatula. The spatula makes it hygienic, but the size is not travel-ideal.
The first use feels cool and herbal. Expect a slight menthol tingle and a clean, almost-squeaky finish after rinsing. If skin feels tight, use a hydrating toner immediately; this is normal for the purifying variant and fades as the routine settles in.
4-5 months with nightly use as a first cleanse.
12 months
spring summer
The backstory.
Clean It Zero launched in 2012 and became the gateway product that convinced Western consumers oil cleansing wasn't just a trend. The Purifying variant was introduced to answer the single most common piece of feedback: oily and congested users loved the feel of the balm but wanted a version that leaned into decongesting instead of just comforting.
About Banila Co
Established Brand (5–20 years)Banila Co launched in 2005. Its Clean It Zero line was among the first K-beauty cleansing balms to gain global mass awareness. The brand is not dermatologist-developed, but the Clean It Zero franchise has over a decade of consistent user feedback. Makeup artists and estheticians widely recommend it for first-cleanse efficacy.
Common myths.
Oil cleansers make oily skin oilier.
This purifying formula rinses fully with water and leaves no occlusive film. The willow bark and zinc PCA regulate sebum instead of adding oil.
The tea tree in this cleanser treats active acne.
Tea tree oil in a rinse-off cleanser lacks enough contact time to treat breakouts. It provides a decongesting feel but does not replace a leave-on BHA or benzoyl peroxide.
FAQ.
What's the difference between the original Clean It Zero and the Purifying version?
The Purifying formula adds willow bark extract, tea tree oil, zinc PCA and fruit enzymes to the original shea-based balm to increase decongestion. The texture is similar, but the scent is sharper and the skin finish feels cooler and more matte.
Is this cleansing balm comedogenic?
It contains ethylhexyl palmitate, which has a moderate comedogenicity rating. Because this rinse-off balm emulsifies fully, users rarely report clogged pores. Rinse with full water emulsification and use a second cleanse to be safe.
Can I use this if I have sensitive skin?
Tea tree, peppermint, menthol, and fragrance make this variant uncomfortable for reactive or rosacea-prone skin. Sensitive users should use the Original or Nourishing Clean It Zero.
Does this remove waterproof sunscreen and long-wear makeup?
Yes — the ethylhexyl palmitate and triglyceride base dissolves mineral sunscreen, tinted SPF, and long-wear foundation in a 30-60 second massage. Use a low-pH gel cleanser next for a complete double cleanse.
Is the Purifying variant fungal-acne safe?
No. Fatty esters and botanical oils in it feed malassezia. The risk is lower than a leave-on product because you rinse it off quickly, but fungal-acne-prone users usually prefer dedicated gel cleansers.
How long does one tub last?
Using the 100ml tub nightly as a first cleanse lasts most users four to five months. The spatula prevents over-scooping, keeping usage near a pea-sized amount per cleanse.
Is this the same as the green-packaged Clean It Zero?
Yes. The Clean It Zero Purifying variant uses a light green tub to differentiate it from the pink Original and other variants in the line.
What the community says.
"effectively melts sunscreen and makeup"
"rinses clean without film"
"leaves oily skin feeling balanced"
"gentle massage texture"
"tea tree scent is strong"
"tingly menthol sensation"
"too drying for already-dry skin"
"fragrance not for sensitive users"
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